ME Tour Begins
Paul stands on the bow of the Phoenicia with the city of Aden, Yemen in the background.
Article
This article is part of a series of nine articles describing my Middle East trip during the fall of 2009. The journey lasted almost three months and included seven countries: Yemen, Oman, Sudan, Egypt, Jordan, Syria, and Turkey.
I can’t believe this is really happening. I am now in Aden, Yemen about to embark on this whirlwind tour of the Middle East. As I wrote earlier, this trip is long overdue. However, some major details about the journey have changed…warranting an update here.
Map showing Paul’s Middle East tour. Click the image above to view the updated itinerary.[NOTE: Blue lines are overland routes, and red lines are water routes.]
The main update is the itinerary change. I’m now spending three weeks in Sudan! Initially wanting to focus my attention on networking with artists and designers throughout the journey, I didn’t plan to spend much time in Sudan. But it’s an amazing country and some really incredible opportunities are likely to open up—namely a visit to Darfur. Just getting a visa into this country can be difficult at times (Crew on the Phoenicia tried several times for weeks without success.) and to have an escort throughout the country in the most difficult to reach areas (might travel by helicopter!) is a priceless opportunity. However, my visa application has still not been approved, so we’ll see.
Another change is instead of visiting Luxor, then crossing the Red Sea from Hurghada to Sharm el Sheikh, I’m skipping Luxor and the ferry to head straight to Cairo. Yes, I know. I’m crazy to pass up the “Valley of the Kings” and everything in Luxor, but I had to trim somewhere. I’ll just do all that when I’m an old geezer. This trip isn’t about seeing the sights so much as it is to network and listen to people.
Another sad change is the sea crossing by yacht from Istanbul to Egypt. I really needed that time in Syria and Turkey, since I added another week in Sudan.
The Journal
I’m excited to mention I will be keeping a journal along the way. It is titled “رحلة في ثقافة الشرق الاوسط” (“Journey into the Culture of the Middle East”) I will be sketching and writing about details along the way, as well as asking questions. I thought, “Wouldn’t it be great to ask people in all these countries the same questions?” So that’s the plan. So far it has been hard to get Yemeni’s to write down their answers…they usually prefer to talk than write. But we’ll see. It’s going to be a ton of work to translate it all into English, but good for my العربية.
These are the five questions I finally decided to use:
- Share a proverb from your people
اعط مثل شعبي من بلادك - What is something unique about your culture?
ما هو الشيء الذي يميز ثقافتك عن غيرها؟ - What can you do to promote peace in your sphere of influence?
ماذا تستطيع ان تفعل لكي تدعم السلام في المحيط الذي توًثر فيه؟ - What is true Islam? Don't mention one of the five pillars, and please quote an ayat (verse) from the Qur'an to support your answer.
ما هو الإسلام الصحيح؟ و لا تذكر الاركان الجمسة. و دعم إجاباتك بايات من القران الكريم. - If you could change one thing in the world what would it be?
اذا استطعت ان تغير احد الاشياء في العالم فما هو؟
Here are a few pictures of the journal. I decided to burn the design into the notebook, but it took forever and the effect was not as dramatic as I hoped (like the burnt look in wood) so I abandoned the idea once I finished the map. I also messed up on the cover, but covered up my mistake.
| Journal Cover | Cover Detail | Back Cover |
| Map CU - Arabia | Map CU - Sinai | Map CU - Yemen |
The Boat
So I am now in Aden getting ready to depart on the Phoenicia this Tuesday. I was on the boat yesterday and was quite impressed with it. It is bigger than I was expecting and quite complex. There are all kinds of tools, mechanisms and procedures for everything. I am learning things like “This is a fire pump.” and “This toolbox is for…” and “Don’t sit too close to the radar or you’ll get blasted with radiation and become infertile.” I hope we get to play with the LRAD gun. Monday we learn a bunch more, including a session on pirates. I’m a little disappointed we don’t have a plank to walk. Arg.
I also met the crew today and am looking forward to spending more time with them. The expedition leader, Philip Beale, is quite knowledgeable about sailing and instills confidence. I will be the first American crew member. The breakdown is as follows:
- One Aussie
- Two English
- Three Indonesians
- One American (that’s me)
- Any Yemeni we can convince to join us
The three Indonesians were with Beale on his previous expedition, and Beale described them saying, “We go back a long ways. These are the finest sailors one can find.” I look forward to learning from everyone on the ship.
The interesting thing is that I am the only Sabbath–keeper and vegetarian on board. I will also be joining one of the crew members fasting Ramadan. I’ll probably be playing my uke and sing songs about Jesus. I’m sure to be the source of confusion as they try to figure me out. :) Actually, Aziz and I may not fast the whole time. The Qur’an gives allowance for travelers, which we certainly are, and we may need the water and food for energy during the day. We’ll see.
I was also assigned the task of updating the ship’s daily online blog. There is a satellite phone on board and I will send the updates to the UK office who will update the website. So do check it out during our voyage, Aug 25 — Sept 4.
View the initial pictures I took of the boat here.
Calendar
I am embedding an online calendar here, which will update each time you visit this page. Any last–minute changes to the plan will be reflected here, so you should always know where we are. You can also click the following link to view it separately. Feel free to share this link as it is publicly viewable.
Paul’s Middle East Tour Calendar
Prayers
I would appreciate your prayers during the trip. It will certainly be difficult at times and full of challenges. However, I would also appreciate your prayers for Meriah.
Meriah is the daughter and first child of my dear, close friends Adam and Crissy. Crissy gave birth to Meriah on Tuesday, Aug 18 but Meriah aspirated merconium fluid and the initial prognosis was very grim. (It has been hard at times to be excited about this trip when I know that those whom I love are suffering.) Since that time, it has been an emotional roller–coaster as she changed from a comatose state to reacting to stimuli to opening her eyes. There is concern that she has most likely suffered severe brain damage. But I believe in miracles. And I’m asking those who also believe to pray for her. Stay updated by visiting the No Less Days website.
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Safe travels
Excited and nervous for you...
I am in awe...
delays delays!!!
I'm still in Aden. Not to be negative, but...
I want to get moving! We keep getting delayed. We were finally supposed to leave the slip way (dry dock) this morning, but the workers didn't arrive on time for the high tide. We have everything ready to go, so HOPEFULLY we're gone at 7am in the morning (Sunday).
In the meantime, we're sitting on a hot boat often with little or no breeze with flies buzzing all around from the barnacles scraped off the boat...not to mention the smell.
Philip (expedition leader) told me before arriving at the boat, "Bring clothes you don't mind throwing away." I really had no idea how serious he was. Everything on the boat is just plain grimy. You start to feel like the sludge becomes a permanent crust on your body. Grease, engine fluids, filth from the elements. This ain't a yacht.
The worst part about these delays is I am missing Oman! Every day here is one less day in Oman. I'm looking at maybe two or three days now in Muscat. :( All in God's timing, though.
Finally, I'll leave you with a fun link:
http://somalicruises.com/
(Maybe my family would be interested in this for a family reunion?)
salaam-
paul
ship delays
The ship has been delayed for a few days. We have been making it seaworthy, and the work has been grueling. Today I carried two tons (4000 pounds) of 20 liter jerry cans full of water from below the ship (it is dry docked right now) up a ladder and into the sweltering deck below. Then I painted most of the hull. Now I understand why it was so easy to get on the boat! :) But I'm still excited about the journey.
We plan to finish preparations tomorrow (Friday Aug 28) and sail out to the harbor in the evening. Then early Saturday we take off for Salalah. I hope the journey takes 6 days. I'm anxious to see Oman and every day here is one less day in Oman.
Also, I have sad news. It looks like my friend won't be able to join me on the journey after all. Maybe we'll put it off for a Himalayan trip!
Awww....
Sorry to hear Zane isn't going to go with you. I know it would be more fun with a friend along. You must be excited about finally being able to head out!
Have a marvelous time!!
Tuesday is looming...
Oh my, we are getting closer to Tuesday...
The pictures of the ship are very different than what I was expecting. It's somehow comforting to see it's larger than I anticipated. I love the pic of you on the bow!! I'm printing it as I write. I also love the artwork you've done on your journal. It will be a treasure when it is finished. I'm looking forward to seeing it.
Much love to you, son.