Sudan - Khartoum to Karima

Article

I sense that Sudan is a country that requires a long visit, perhaps even a year, to have a fair, balanced perspective. While in Sudan, I really fought the inclination to judge a place immediately. No sooner had I written off a place as unfriendly and inhospitable, someone would invite me into their home. I’m a little ashamed to say that I usually didn’t like most places at first, but then over time they would really grow on me. This reaction is quite unlike my experience in Yemen, where I connected and loved the place and people instantly. As in any place, I have had my moments in Yemen where I want to tear out my hair in frustration. But Sudan appears elusive to me. It didn’t attract me immediately, but over time I sense my feelings changing. This should be evident in the fact that just as we took off on the ferry from Sudan, I called everybody I met along my journey to say goodbye. I really sense that the Sudanese people could really be true, deep friends. Actually, I sense that they would eventually show me I know nothing about friendship.

And that’s something that has caused me to ruminate as well. What is true friendship? Is it mere shared experiences between people of mutual interests? Or is it more? Too often I sense time with friends is rushed. True friendship takes time. Perhaps I sense a special friendship with the Sudanese because that is exactly the thing they DO have. Time. Perhaps some of us should live a simpler and even more uncomfortable life in order to have more time to give to our friends?

Hospitality in Khartoum

My time in Khartoum was really blessed. I was the guest of the ADRA Country Director and his wife, who really did their best to make my stay as enjoyable and productive as possible. Later, as I traveled north of the city, I would reflect on their hospitality as I met others along the way. Arabs love to say their culture is unique for it’s hospitality. And it is true that there are many aspects to Arab hospitality that outshine other cultures. For example, when a person visits an Arab in their home or even on the street, they will almost always receive an invitation to drink together. Arabs love to be generous with their means…often meager in places like Sudan.

But I must say that there are many aspects of hospitality in Western society that are overlooked. And my time in Khartoum is a prime example. I was treated like a son and felt welcome the entire time…despite whatever added burden I became to them. Not only this, I have had countless experiences in the US where people offered their homes, tables, cars, time and love to me. And I think that I, along with many Americans, downplay our culture and say that we have a lot to learn. But it really comes down to perspective. What may be considered rude in one culture is not an issue in the other. In an upcoming article I will write about my time in Abri, Sudan. I was so frustrated and lonely when I arrived in the small village. No one even greeted me and they even seemed to go out of their way to ignore me. But when I entered a restaurant, I finished my meal and someone had paid for me. I didn’t even know who it was. It’s weird…how do I react to the town? Is it hospitable or not? Hospitality is a multifaceted concept.

Downtown visit

The second day I was in Khartoum, I set off for the downtown area. I wanted to break the fast with people somewhere. As I set off on a bus, I tried showing my map to people but to my amazement, not a single person knew where we were on the map. None of them could even find the Nile river! (This, I found throughout the country, even by some educated people. They just don’t use maps.) I was a bit alarmed since I rely on my ability to know where I am in a foreign place in order to find my way back home. But it all worked out. I met some awesome guys in “Souk Afrengi” and “Souk Arabi” that provided several hours of conversation. I wished several times I could take a picture, but pictures in Khartoum can get a person into trouble. So I have almost no pictures of my time there.

Later, I traveled downtown with the ADRA Yemen Country Director—a Sudanese himself. It was really great to hear his stories about growing up in the city and learn about various places along the way. In one place, we just walked right into someone’s home while the guy was sitting on his couch watching TV! It turns out they were old friends. He, a Muslim, brought out drinks for us and was very surprised to learn that I was fasting. He drank my drink instead!

SED program

While in Khartoum, I had the chance to visit a few ADRA projects. The first was the SED (Social Enterprise Development?) program located about 45 minutes outside Khartoum. We visited what appeared to be “the projects” of the city. It was featureless area covering an enormous amount of land. By featureless, I mean just that. There truly was nothing to see, but perfectly straight rows of tiny, square, mud–brick houses as far as the eye could see. In most places, not even a tree, bush, or blade of grass could be seen. I really sensed here my blessings profoundly. The ADRA team here works with locals to train the people to use their resources to improve their lives. I was impressed with the team leaders that I met. One woman insisted that she marry me. I smiled and said, “Uh, thanks, but it’s not possible because…” But couldn’t think of a reason fast enough. The group laughed.

Umjawasir

ADRA Sudan also has a project about three hours north of Khartoum in the middle of the desert. They drill wells for the people to irrigate their farmland. The project has had great success. I heard a story that even airplane pilots talk about flying across the desert and can’t believe the green patches they see.

Here too, is a vast, barren area. But for some reason I felt much more at home here than in the SED program. It was still wild and free. We even visited some wells that were hand–dug generations ago. I felt like I was visiting Jacob’s well!

Karima and Merowe

After my time in Khartoum, I set off by bus for Karima, a small town on the Nile far north of Khartoum. I was fortunate to benefit from the new roads constructed by the Chinese. It was not too long ago that one had to make the journey by truck along rough tracks of sand. What would take a long day years ago now only takes about four or five hours.

Karima was a beautiful village. I especially enjoyed walking through the palm groves along the Nile. It appears to be the vacation spot for all of Sudan, too, since there are several pyramids from the Nubian days and a mountain called “Jabal Berkal”. I arrived just at the end of Eid (basically like Christmas holiday season in the US) and the place was FULL of Sudanese. I’m probably in many a photo album (or mobile phone) as everyone unabashedly took pictures of me, giggling with glee. I was the only non–Sudanese there, that I could tell.

Well, I should say I saw a caravan of foreigners making their way in their Landcruisers. They were staying in an outrageously expensive hotel in town. My hotel was US$2 per night. Theirs? My slightly old guidebook says US$175 per night. I was happy to be in my very dirty “lokunda” though. I felt so much closer to the people.

I spent most of my time walking and hiking. I covered a lot of territory in unbearable heat. I spent over twice as much money on water as I did on my hotel per day! The locals actually use conveniently placed clay jars in the shade, filled with water from the Nile. But the water was murky at best. I’d probably adjust to it if I lived there, but I certainly didn’t want to get sick this early in my journey.

All–time worst beard trim

I’m not carrying a knife to trim my beard because I want to be able to carry–on my bags for flights. So after awhile my beard gets unmanageable. I met an Egyptian barber and he gave me a trim. He started off with my head tilted far back and I knew he was going too far, but I said to myself, “Let him do whatever he wants.” I felt so disgusted with the result that I almost had him just shave it right off. To me, I prefer the mountaineer look. This felt more like a cross between a wife–beater, pimp, arrogant western film badguy, and womanizing sleazeball…everything I hate. I never thought I was so particular about it. I took a picture and I think you might agree. When he finished, he refused “payment” but insisted I give him a “gift.” His broad smile grew more sinister as he really started to put the pressure on. I considered it a warning of the land where I was headed just north. Egyptians unfortunately have a reputation. The thought of arriving in Egypt alone is not a pleasant one.

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Submitted by paul on Mon, 09/21/2009 - 12:00am.